Waxing for Artificial Snow
Artificial snow has a different makeup than natural snow and requires a slightly different approach to waxing. Artificial snow is a solid triangular block of ice and tends to be more abrasive than natural snow. Artificial snow can also vary from a fine new blown snow crystals to more large abrasive transformed “icy” snow crystals.
For these reasons waxing is slightly different for Artificial snow.
Ski Flex and Structure
The ski flex and structure for artificial snow are the most unpredictable part of theski preperation. The ski flex and structure will depend on the tilling, grooming, and the amount of traffic on the trail (generally high).
For most conditions Fast Wax recommends a moderate ski flex with a little more structure than normal. In general a universal grind or in more humid conditions a light 0.3 mm broken pattern will give the best performance.
Glide Wax
Fast Wax recommends using a fluorinated wax one temperature rangel colder than indicated for the normal conditions. It is advisable to wax more frequently as artificial snow tends to be dirty, abrasive, and wears the wax and bases faster than normal. Fortunately, Fast Wax products provide additional protection to the ski base and have tested well in the artificial snow conditions.
A good combination is a harder base layered under a race wax, such as Fast Wax HSLF 10 Teal under the HSF-20 Tan.
Grip Wax
Grip wax will vary a little more depending on the how transitioned the snow is and how often the trail is groomed. With finer newly blown snow most hard waxes will work well with an ironed in binder. When the snow has transitioned, iron in a klister binder and add a multigrade or universal klister as the grip wax.
Here are some recommended options:
Iron in Rode Black Binder or Rex Power Grip Blue and top coat with Rode Multigrade grip wax
For transitioned snow, Iron in a Blue Klister and top coat with Rode Mulitgrade Klister.
(The multigrade Klister should be applied almost as long as a normal wax
pocket, generally about 1 inch shorter than normal front and back)
For icy conditions use a Blue Klister binder and top coat with Rex OV ice klister.
(In this type of condition use the normal klister pocket on the ski, shorten up
on both the front and back by 2 to 3 inches of the kick zone)
Waxing for snow is the essential to have an icy look of the snow. I will bookmark it.
I am not sure if I understand your comment. However, if you are referring artificial snow as icy this can also be transformed snow that can have similar properties and be very abrasive. For this type of snow wax as if it were artificial snow
Hey Fastwax,
I had my skis ground and hot boxed at the end of last season. What do I need to do to harden up the bases and get them ready for skiing on artificial snow until we get natural snow? Should I do several layers of a hard sport wax and then do a final layer of low flouro? I only have sport wax and low flouro, no high flouro. Thanks!
If you can possibly avoid it do not use the newly ground skis on the artificial snow. It is very abrasive with ice sections in the corners that can take the edges off your skis. If you need to use the newly ground ski wax them often with a hard Sport Wax or a LF wax. Use a harder than normal wax such as the HS 10 Teal or the HSLF 10 Teal and do worry about the temperature ranges.
Wax your ski as often as you can with the hard waxes to protect the bases
I can’t really avoid using the skis on artificial snow unless I want to miss a good part of our winter season. What about the extreme white wax in either low flouro or sport wax? Would that be even better at protecting my ski bases from the man-made snow?
Also, for everyday training do I really need low flouro or can I get away with sport wax. I’m not a racer or anything, I just want reasonably fast skis for training. I do use low flouro for the few races I do and just layer it up. I haven’t delved into the world of high flouro….. yet. Thanks!
Brian,
If your are not trying to keep the skis for racing it is just fine to use them on the artificial snow. The HS-10 Teal wax will work fine for protecting the bases, just wax often and look for white spots on the bases. If you see any brush your skis out and wax them
Dan